Domaine Marcel Deiss 'Altenberg de Bergheim' Grand Cru Blanc 2020

You hear 'grand cru' and expect something intense, mysterious - this wine is a delightful example of the opposite side of the spectrum. Generous and open, the nose has a swath of honeyed and candied fruit, jumping from mango to orange and apricot as if it's no big deal. The palate is more fine-toned, but only just so; there's a vibrant, taught energy without losing that warmth of the multilayered fruit notes. There's a minty quality to the lemon-y fruit notes on the finish, ending as exotic as it started. In a remarkable drinking place now.