Claude Thomas was then 73, when he was first approached by importer Doug Polaner. He wished to retire, but was continuing to work in the hope that his daughter and son-in-law would take over. This eventually happened when Jean-Paul Labaille (son-in-law) quit his civil service job and became a full-time vigneron. For the previous ten vintages, he had taken his vacation during the harvest to be the assistant winemaker to Claude. Although Labaille has somewhat tidied up Thomas's facilities, only minimal changes have occurred. The vineyards remain among the best in Chavignol, with a large proportion of old vines. The old barrels are not in use any more, but the vineyard and cellar work follow the same time-honored techniques. Les Monts Damnés plot is too steep to ever consider machine harvesting (which is now the norm) and it requires intensive, non-mechanized vineyard work. However, drainage and exposure are excellent and ensure the best ripeness for the vintage. The wine is still vinified in large concrete vats, stainless steel, and oak barrels, which have been replaced by newer ones, mostly second-hand, 2 to 3 years old, to let it breathe and evolve slowly on its lees. The result is sensational - rich, fat, round, with layered aromas, a subtle nose and a long finish. Not a typical bistro Sancerre, but a graceful wine meant for ageing and pleasure. The 2007 has high, intense notes of ripe citrus fruits, with a lingering finish of fresh cut grass and green apple. Pair it with a frisée and bitter lettuce salad, with grapefruit, hazelnuts, and manchego.